F25 is a pretty unusual code on these machines – I don’t see it very often. F25 tells us that the central control board (or motor control board – not sure which) is not sensing the tachometer on the motor. On this one, the motor and tachometer both ohmed out as good. It took me a good half hour of checking continuity and testing to finally find this broken wire. It was still nicely lodged into the connector, but no longer had continuity. When I gave it a good tug, it popped out of the connector.

So a new motor harness for this one. That was a fun problem.

This is a French Door model Whirlpool refrigerator. The freezer door was incredibly hard to open and close. The cause was pretty obvious. The left hand rail and track system has completely come apart and is binding up. Will be replacing the whole left rail system to get this unit working properly again.

This washer was mostly spinning pretty much the whole cycle. I replaced the timer which fixed the problem. When I took the old timer apart, I found fused contacts – so the timer was definitely the issue.

Leaks can occur on these machines for many different reasons. The most common though, is leaking due to damage to the door boot (or bellow as it is also commonly called.) It does not take much for a leak to develop.  In this case the customer had shut the door with an item of clothing trapped between the door boot and the bottom of the door glass. When the unit went into its spin cycle, it pulled on the gasket hard enough to change the shape of the flap that seals to the bottom of the door. This unit was not leaking much – maybe a tablespoon per load, but it was definitely caused by this little wrinkle.

If yours is leaking and there are no obvious tears or holes in the door boot, then take a look at the bottom edge and see if it is a bit misshapen.  If it is, a door boot replacement is what you’ll be doing to fix it.

If you dump all the unpopped popcorn kernels into the bottom of your dishwasher, it probably won’t wash as well. That goes for toothpicks, bones, olive or fig pits as well.  Pretty much anything that should go into the garbage should not go into your dishwasher.

If this dark brown stuff is coming out of your filter/dryer when you push nitrogen through it, you can be sure that your sealed system is pooched. I tried everything I could to get this system dry, but it would restrict every time within about 2 mins of startup.  The only way to get this unit going again will be to replace evaporator, compressor, condenser and heat exchanger – pretty much the whole system. Not worth it on this one.

There is a slight glitch in the video at the beginning -- what I was showing is that the freezer door is being held open about a finger thickness. Not enough to turn the light on and trigger the door alarm, but enough to coat the evaporator and warm up both sections.

www.youtube.com/watch?v=Bzv5wP0S7K4

Sometimes its really not too hard to diagnose a problem.

Here is another dryer element that shorted out to ground. This means that whenever the dryer was on, even on the air fluff cycle, the element was going full blast. This took out the safety cut-out fuse. 

From now on, unless I see really bad venting issues on blown safety cut-out fuse jobs, I’m checking the element to make sure it is not grounded.

F20 is the code that the machine flashes up when it does not sense water entering. This can be a bad valve, or the water source turned off or even the flood stop hoses that some people use. In this case it was a poorly routed pressure switch hose. The hose was routed in a way that allowed it to rub against the back of the tub. It took 2 years but it finally rubbed a hole through the hose which meant that the pressure was being released and so the pressure switch kept calling for water.

A new hose routed properly and all is up and running again.