Bottom Mount Whirlpool Fridge Leaking Water
EDIT: New Whirlpool Refrigerators. The issue described below was resolved on the assembly line at Whirlpool at least 2 years ago. New Whirlpool refrigerators have different drain systems. This does not mean that they will never have a drain problem = since the invention of the self-defrosting fridges we’ve been fixing plugged drains, but it does mean that the problem outlined is no longer an ongoing issue on new fridges.
If your Maytag or Whirlpool bottom mount fridge is leaking water, it might have a blocked drain in the freezer section. The symptoms typically are periodic water on the floor in front of the fridge and a sheet of ice in the bottom of the freezer. The way the defrost system works is: every 6 to 8 hours we turn on a heating element in the freezer section to melt any frost build up on the evaporator. This water drips down into a trough and then drains via a tube to the drain pan in the bottom of the fridge where it evaporates away. When that tube gets blocked, the water backs up into the trough in the freezer eventually spilling down into the bottom of the freezer where it freezes.
There is only one way to repair this problem properly so that the problem does not come back … just defrosting the unit is not a perminment repair (just a hint to those companies that I’ve been following around these days.)
What usually happens is something gets caught in the grommet which is attached to the bottom of the drain tube. (The grommet is the soft black rubber ‘duck bill’ valve that is slipped on to the bottom of he drain tube that prevents warm air from migrating into the freezer – more on this later.) The blockage could be a gummed up spill (like milk), a pea, bits of bread crumbs or anything else that could be carried into the drain. What I’m finding a lot of is bits of insulation from the manufacturing process ending up in that grommet. This blockage holds water that begins to freeze and eventually creates a dam and complelely blocks off the drain … and then you end up with water on the floor.
Here is a picture of a big chuck of insulation that was caught in the ice that was built up in the drain trough.
Here are more bits of insulation in the drain trough. These bits flow into the drain tube and are caught by the grommet eventually blocking it up.
This is what the grommet looks like with bits of junk and gummed up gunk in it.
How to Repair
The only way to properly repair this is to clear all the ice out of the trough and drain tube. Then remove the grommet from the bottom of the drain tube (accessed from the compressor compartment), clean it out and trim it open a bit. This is the part of the repair where things might get a bit dicey. Whirlpool will NOT want this done! What the grommet does is prevent the freezer from equalizing the air pressure through the drain tube when the freezer door is shut. If the grommet is not there, then when the air pressure equalizes, it will draw warm moist air through the drain tube which coats the evaporator and can cause potential moisture issues in other areas. The trouble is: the grommet opening is just a slit and is easily restricted. This is causing multiple calls for the same issue (blocked drain causing leaks.)
So what to do?
Here is what I do. I trim the end off the grommet. This allows the water to flow out more easily and helps prevent blockages while at the same time still restricts air from free flowing into the freezer through the drain tube. I’ve gone back to a number of fridges where I’ve done this repair and rechecked the evaporator and have not found any excessive frost or moisture, so I’m confident that I’m not causing other problems by doing this. However … this is not the official repair, so do at your own risk.
Here is what the grommet looks like trimmed.
If you are fixing these some other way, I would love to hear about it … always looking for new ways to do repairs!
Update!
EDIT: Since I made this post, Whirlpool has come out with a ‘official’ repair for this problem. It involves a new ‘p-trap’ which replaces the ‘duck-bill’ grommet that was getting full of junk and sticking together. Even with this p-trap repair being available, if you want to do the repair yourself and don’t want to pay a Whirlpool certified repairman, the above repair works just as well. I’ve never had a callback on this repair, and I’ve done it dozens of times, so you can have confidence with it. That being said, here is the info on the repair kit from Whirlpool:
My understanding is that the part will be provided at no cost for up to 2 years from the date of purchase. Visit Whirlpool.com for more information.
Edit … Part Deux!!
Here is a video of how to install the new drain tube. It’s pretty easy – should only be about a 15 minute job. Don’t forget to clear the ice out of drain at the back bottom of the freezer section … otherwise the water will continue to leak even after you’ve completed the repair (either the ‘snip’ or the drain tube install.)
httpvh://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7akWydOJyhc
Edit … Part 3 The Final Chapter! (Maybe. lol.)
Here is a quick cautionary video showing how easy it is break the drain pan. Don’t crack it = you will NOT like that repair if you have to replace it. (Glue does not work!) You want to work out the old trough by pushing on the tab, not just bending it or ripping it out.
httpvh://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iCdaghxERAY
149 Comments
Blake
I installed the new P-Trap Drain Tube kit but I’m still getting water on the floor. Any ideas what else it could be?
Head Wrench
If the water is still coming from the floor of the freezer, then you need to clear the ice from under the evaporator which is behind the back wall. You can try to defrost for 24 hours, but if there is junk in the trough, then you’ll have to pull the back wall to physically clear it.
Pam Campbell
I bought this refrigerator never being told I would probably have a leak every couple of months. I am so disappointed in this.
Head Wrench
They didn’t exactly plan to have this failure when they were designing it. Lol. It’s a simple repair … best to just fix it and move on.
Paul
It’s people like you that make the internet such a great resource! Thanks for all of the detail and information.
Heather
My Whirlpool refrigerator is only slightly over three years old and has been a complete nightmare since the purchase. Especially since the company I purchased it from “HHGregg” went out of business in my town or else I’d just drop the entire FRIDGE on the doorsteps at HHGregg and be done with it. I’ve had the ice maker replaced a total of 4 times. Same issues James 8/16/17 was referring to. The first two times it was under warranty so no sweat off my back. The third time I called whirlpool and complained and was told there was nothing they could do since it was out of warranty. So, I paid out of pocket for the repair that was nearly $300.00. The fourth time (not even a year later) I had kept the part that was taken out from the third replacement and when I was told it was that SAME EXACT PART I called Whirlpool AGAIN. Of course they tried to give me a runaround. Even suggested I wasn’t taking proper care of the refrigerator. I assured the customer service rep that it’s clean and looks brand new and being that it’s only myself in the home and I work 12 hour days 6 days a week the ice maker is NOT even getting much use! Not nearly enough to have to have been replaced a fourth time for a then 2 1/2 year old fridge. After going back and forth with the customer service rep she told me if I could provide a statement from a reputable repair company that it was in fact that same part they would send me the part for free but I would still have to pay for someone to replace it. Well, it was IN FACT that same EXACT part and Whirlpool did mail me free of charge the replacement part but I still had to pay over $100 for someone to replace the part. NOW from what I read in most of the above comments the drain is clogging up. Ice is accumulating in the bottom of the freezer that is located on the bottom and then begins to leak onto the floor. I try to keep the ice broke up and cleared out but it’s very difficult to get to. I cannot reach under the drawers to break it up and clear it out. I carefully use a rubber mallet to break up the ice and then have to use a long yard stick to slide all the ice over to where I can still barely reach to remove it which usually results in it going all over the floor and creating a huge puddle of water. WHAT A MESS!!! It’s SO FRUSTRATING! Please if you are looking to purchase a NEW FRIDGE DO NOT PURCHASE a WHIRLPOOL REFRIGERATOR!!!!
Head Wrench
Respectfully. Replacing a Whirlpool icemaker 4 times … is not a Whirlpool issue, this is a repair or use issue. There are literally thousands upon thousands of Whirlpool icemakers in North America and they are not all being changed 4 times. Somebody needs to get to the bottom of why it is happening. A plugged drain as you describe at the end of your comment is a different issue … and is a simple 15 minute fix for someone who knows what they are doing. Sorry you are having issues and hopefully you find a real service company you can trust to help you out.
Dan
I’ve been reading reviews in the US at homedepot and Lowe’s in the French door models and people still complaining of water in the floor for 2017. Makes me nervous to buy one however whirlpool seems to have least service calls from what I read somewhere. The Samsung’s seem to have computer boards go bad, so it’s a tough call which one to buy. I have laminate floors too.
In your experience, which brand of French door fridges have the least problems?
If I go the whirlpool route. First thing I’m opening up the back!
Head Wrench
Most of the French Door models that I see now have a different drain system (not the p-trap) and I’ve not had an unusual number of service calls on it.
Dan
Any confirmed new whirlpool fridges shipping with the ptrap?
While ptrap seems like a better solution, does it work as intended? Have you seen any issues with the ptrap ?
Thanks
Head Wrench
No issues with P-trap style.
Robbie Bowers
I’m having problem of water running out of bottom of my Whirlpool Gold model # GI7FVCXXA01.
Water is coming from both right and left front corners. I don’t see any ice on bottom of freezer. Just started today and amount is pretty large, already had to clean up water several times. What should be my first step?
Rick
Thanks for the tip. Guess you have to watch you don’t kink the tubing running thru the back of the pan. Looks like getting the shroud out shouldn’t be an issue with the pan dropped. Was hoping to tilt it from the left side rather than the back, but I guess not with this pan.
Rick
I guess there are a few different ones. Mine is part # W10296784 subbed to WPW10655367
Rick
How exactly do you go about changing out that drain pan? Any videos? Got a small crack in the pan taking out the old style plastic ramp.
Head Wrench
You have to separate the back of the fridge base from the cabinet to change that pan. Tip the fridge forward slightly … there are 2 torx screws going into the bottom of the base on each side toward the back. Take those out. Wedge a piece of 2×4 into the space between the base and the cabinet to hold it apart and change out your pan.
James
I am having the same issue with my whirlpool fridge. Model # – GZ25FSRXYY5
Another thing that happened about a month ago is the ice maker stopped making ice. I could still here the teeth flipping over every 5 minutes or so, but no ice. So, I turned the ice maker off using the options in the touch pad. Problem is, I could still here the ice maker turning over every 4 to 5 minutes…no ice. I did some research and tried all the troubleshooting tips. Didn’t fix the problem. I finally just took the ice maker out to keep it from making noise every 5 minutes. I unplugged my fridge for 24 hours with doors and bottom freezer door open thinking maybe the water line was frozen, that didn’t help. All of this happened after I changed the water filter. So, I put the cap in place of the water filter to bypass it all together…didn’t fix a thing. Please help!!! Thank you
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Ski Piotrowski
Really enjoyed your video on the drain tube issue with bottom freezer. Problem though is that the update on the drain tube installation, THE VOLUME OF THE VIDEO IS HORRIBLY LOW! CAN’T HEAR WHAT YOU’RE SAYIN’!! ???
JUST A FYI.THANKS!!
Head Wrench
Ya … can’t fix it now. Hopefully it was helpful still.
Bobbi
Thank you!! We’be been removing sheets of ice for what seems like forever. I found your site, ordered the parts and with a little patience, removing all the frozen ice, and swapping in the new parts it’s as good as new. It also gave me a good excuse to make my husband clean the freezer rack & drawers while I finished up the installation. Ha! 🙂
Head Wrench
Nice work. Yer hired! lol.
scott bauer
I am having the same issue with water freezing on the bottom of the freezer section and eventually running out onto the floor when the bottom “fills up”. I have cut the grommet but still evidence of water going through the grommet and into the evaporation pan – no sign of water ever making it that far. I tried to clean out the nipple the the rubber grommet attaches and not sure if that does any good. I can stick a nail up the nipple about 1 inch and encounter a solid surface – maybe ice or just part of the refer shell.
May just be stuck with removing the ice on the freezer bottom. Any other suggestions? Thanks
Head Wrench
You have not cleared the ice from the trough under the evaporator. You can try defrosting the complete unit (minimum 12 hours unplugged with the doors open,) or you can remove the back wall inside the freezer section and remove the ice manually.
Sue
Hi, I follow your instructions switch the p trap for my whirlpool fridgerator. But the ice still build up at the button. When I first open the back of fridge, the grommet is dry and dusty not sticky. Can you tell me what is the problem for my fridge and what can I do to fix it. Thank y
Head Wrench
I cannot tell you exactly what is wrong, but if water is still pooling at the bottom of the freezer, the defrost drain system must still be blocked. You will need to remove the ice from under the evaporator which means removing the back wall of the freezer section and melting all the ice out and making sure the water can drain down through the P-Trap.
David B. Fisher
Was having the same problem…and usually I could pull out freezer and defrost, removing the sheet of ice on the bottom. This last time, in pulling out the door…the connections between the door and the glide rails broke with holes in the inner side of the door. Is this a lost cause, or can I get a new door with guide rails? I realize that we also need to fix the drainage issue.
Head Wrench
Should be able to get the drawer rails. I’ve never had those break before … the drawer must have been frozen in pretty good!
Jason
Can someone please help me with a suggestion? this article is spot on for everything happening with my frig. However, after I followed the instruction, I still seeing issues.
I found the grommet and it looks like there are lot of junk that clogged up the small slit opening there. I clean it up and put it back in. I also defrost all the thick ice that was formed at the bottom of the freezer. I also vacuumed as much as I can inside of the frig (behind the back panel). I also try to poke at the drain hole and does not feel any obstruction at the drain hole.
I’m still seeing the same issue after the cleaning. I noticed that the drain pan is dry, and so is the little plastic tube that goes from the drain hole (with grommet attached) is also dry. I suspect the water never came out of the frig and goes down the drain hole and drain pipe to drain pan as it should. So after a few hours (probably 6 hours or so) the moisture from freezer is forming a thin layer of ice. About every day, when the frig turns on the defrost which is supposed to melt the ice and drain the water, it never drain and just stay in the freezer. So every day, I observe that thin layer of ice broken up and become partly water at the bottom of the freezer and it never drain. Because I check the drain tubing and pan, they were dry. The same thing happened regularly for a few days now.
At this point, I’m not sure what to do next. It is apparent that the water did not come out of the frig into the drain pan. Otherwise the frig is functioning normally. A work around for me now is to clear these ice from time to time, so when it melt during the daily defrosting cycle that a lot of water is going to leak out onto my floor. The grommet was definitely dirty and I cleaned it up it doesn’t help. I did not find any obvious holes or openings inside of the freezer that the water comes out of.
The water leaked onto the floor is definitely coming out of the bottom of the freezer when it gets too much. It’s NOT from overflowing of the drain pan since the pan is dry.
Head Wrench
Your drain is still blocked at the back of the freezer section below the evaporator. You can try doing a complete defrost (unplug the fridge and leave the doors open for 12 hours,) but very often this does not solve the problem as the tube is usually blocked with something other than ice. The only solution in this case is to remove the evaporator cover and clear the ice and debris from the drain trough. This is what I always do when performing this repair. Good luck.
Henry Coggins
I had the ice build up and leaking problem too. I contacted Whirlpool and they Fedex the new P Trap parts. I tried to put the tab on the old drain pipe to remove it from the drain pan with no success. I cracked the drain pan. Now, the fridge defrost and drains properly but it runs onto floor from cracked pan. Going to try superglue to correct it. No way am I going to try to replace the drain pan!
Head Wrench
Yep. I’ve cracked a few in my time. I’ve never tried superglue … but I know silicone won’t hold. Good luck!
Val Kvool
We recently saw water pooling on the floor from the right side just below the bottom freezer. I was pursuing the problem as noted in your blog regarding the grommet. When I took the back panel off, I saw a noticeable drip, not from the grommet connection, but rather from the unit that connects the water lines from the wall and our refrigerator. After disconnecting the power and shutting off the water, I detached the unit from the frame. The water line from the wall comes off, but I can not separate the water line from the refrigerator from this unit. The drip is coming from just above this water line where a blue washer is seated into the green plastic fitting from the unit. Whirlpool does not even list this part on their web site, so I am at a loss. We are on well water and know we have a lot calcium in our water. Plastics fall victim to our calcified water. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Would like to send you a picture of the part.
Head Wrench
This is not related to the blocked drain tube issue but send along a picture of your drip and your model number and I’ll track down a part number for you.
Carol Reinhardt
I have a lower freeze Whirlpool fridge leaking water on the right side. The p-trap was fixed and there was a small hold in the pan which was repaired, The fridge is three years old.
Does anyone know what the problem could be?
Head Wrench
Is there ice on the bottom of the freezer section? Or is water coming out from under unit?
Barbara F.
Thank you for the tutorial. After watching I pulled out the fridge and looked inside. I already had the p drain pipe but my tray was bone dry. I pulled it off and some water came out. When I looked into the pipe I saw that it was completely clogged up. I unplugged the fridge over night to defrost the ice in the bottom and cleaned out the clogged pipe. Just put it back together and poured a little water through the drain hole inside the bottom of the freezer, I immediately heard water hit the drain pan! Thanks so much.
#whirlpoolrepairwife
Head Wrench
Nice work #whirlpoolrepairwife! lol.
Joyce Houck
So nice to have help from you. 2month ago I removed ice from the very bottom of my Whirlpool Gold, french door fridge. My handiman cleaned the plugged gromet, snipped a tiny V at the bottom.
It did not work, still water in the floor and thick ice in the bottom
Last night I removed everything from fridge and freezer and turned it off to defrost for 24 hours. This time I will have my handiman snip the gromet like you pictured. I will cross my fingers and hope it works .
I’m surprised at Whirlpool. Can’t find a place to buy the or order a new duckbill gromit.
Frank
Hrm I see.. I will take some pictures of the freezer frost and send them your way! Is there an email address I can send the pictures to?
For reference, I have a Whirlpool gz25fsrxyy. It’s about 5 years old, and I had it serviced about 2 years ago.
My issue then was the LED panel wasn’t recognizing when my freezer was open (and also freezer light wouldn’t turn on when opened because it thought it was closed). The technician broke the plastic ‘button’ tab (that pushes in when freezer closed) when trying to get to a board, and he ended up replacing that and a board as well.
Now that I think about it, I have had a frosting freezer problem before.. not sure if it was during the same time as the LED panel problem, but I think it’s always just ‘corrected’ itself over time?
Anyway, thank you so much for any advice or insight you can provide! I can send the pictures your way if there’s a preferred email contact I can send it to.
Frank
Thank you for the tutorial and info! My freezer is starting to frost over- there’s not a solid sheet of ice on the bottom or anything, but everything is starting to get frosty. I’m guessing it’s the start of the same problem as you’re discussing here.
I opened up the back panel and found the duckbill grommet and cleaned it out a bit. I’ve also gone ahead and ordered the P-Trap kit to install in a few days.
In order to properly defrost before installing the p-trap, can i just unplug/open doors, or do you think I need to remove the freezer panel and further defrost the evaporator tray and coils? Or will unplugging it for a while take care of defrosting all of it?
I don’t really want to remove the freezer baskets, and the plastic guard things and freezer panel if I can help it!
Thank you for your help!
Head Wrench
Just unplugging and leaving the doors open for a good 12 to 24 hours will do the job. However, you likely do not have this particular issue … frosty frost is a sign of either a defrost problem, a warm air leak or a control board issue (especially if yours is a Jazz Board model.) The ice on this one is found in the bottom of the freezer and the drain trough under the evaporator and does not cause frost. It will be ice. Good luck! (If you took pictures, send them along and I’ll tell you what I see.)
Deborah
Great video I have a whirlpool french door refrigerator. I pulled the back panel off I have a chunk if ice around tge thermostat section. Could ny issue be my thermostat. I wish I could upload pic
Head Wrench
I’m not sure what you mean by ‘thermostat section’. Sometimes units with blocked drains develop ice balls in the top right of the evaporator due to high moisture levels in the freezer. Not sure if this is what you are talking about though.
Tom Marvel
Thank you so much for your help!
Tom Marvel
I guess I wasn’t clear. I did pour water in the trough and it drained out the bottom as it is supposed to. What I meant was, as the fridge is running, shouldn’t I see water in the evaporation trough so that I know it’s working properly?
Head Wrench
Oh. I see what you mean. No, you will only see water in that tray immediately after a defrost cycle. If it is a heavy defrost you may see water 5 or 6 hours later but most of the time the defrost water evaporates pretty quick with the heat and fan running back there. Sounds like you’ve got the problem solved.
Tom Marvel
I guess I wasn’t clear. I did pour water in the trough and it drained out the bottom as it is supposed to. What I meant was, as the fridge is running, shouldn’t I see water in the drainage trough in the back at the bottom of the fridge?
Tom Marvel
Thanks for your help. I totally defrosted the evaporation pan and cleared it of ice. The drain hole in the back of the fridge looks to be clear. Hopefully this will solve the problem. Should I start to see water in the evaporation pan in the back? I just want to find out if it’s working before I put the back back on. Thanks!
Head Wrench
Yes – just pour some water down the hole in the trough … it should end up in the evaporation pan at the bottom.
Tom Marvel
My Wirlpool fridge is still building up ice at the bottom of the freezer and the overflowing and water is leaking out the front onto the floor. I replaced with the P Trap and still leaks. Took the back off and discovered that the overflow tray is dry. Shouldn’t there be some water in it? Maybe this is a different problem.
Head Wrench
No … same problem. You just need to clear the ice from the drain trough at the back of the freezer section. You will either have to defrost the fridge completely or pull the back wall off and manually clear the ice.
Claude Barnhart/Memphis
Re: Caulking side-ends & rear corners (from below post); 4 days & 4 nights, no leaks. The panel at the rear of the tubes is bent at the bottom & formed to make a catch basin to catch the defrost water; however the back panel and the formation of the catch basin is not sealed on the outside of the catch basin. Such may not present a problem, except when the drain hole in the bottom of the catch basin doesn’t clear out rapidly enough (maybe in times of extreme humidity) water can “overboard” at the sides & rear corner of the catch basin. Sealing the sides and back rear corners with caulk seems to have stopped our leaks. Note that the frig was level side-side, front-back, and corner-corner, so out-of-level wasn’t perpetrating any leaks. Your mileage may vary.
Head Wrench
Nice! I’ll keep an eye out for that one … Thanks for letting us know the outcome!
Claude Barnhart/Memphis
Whirlpool, bottom freezer; defrost continued to leak after adding p-trap, checking drain pan for no leaks; went back into back of freezer removed back panel; found at extreme outside of the catch pan under the coils that the bottom is not sealed to the vertical side, and a hole in the extreme back corner on each side. Caulked/sealed each side and back corner; standing by to see if the caulk prevents leak. Not likely that the catch pan under the coils would ever back up with water to the extreme corners as the center drain is wide open, checked by pouring water into catch pan – all ran out quickly to drain pan below. Humidity has been at max for the past three days, more than 3″ rain; so maybe the water did back up that far and ran out thru the holes in the corners…..hoping that the caulk is the answer.
Head Wrench
Can’t say I’ve seen that before – let us know how it goes.
Claude Barnhart
This morning, I removed the back cover, drain pan was dry, so I added a big glass of water to it — doesn’t leak, no signs of having leaked, steel refrig bottom under the drain pan shows no sign of water.
Head Wrench
If it is not the pan, then you’ll have to just figure out where it is coming from the old fashioned way … clean it up and check every couple of hours to see if fresh water is there … look for water trails … sleuth it out.
Claude Barnhart
Whirlpool GB2FHDXWQ05 – had same leaking on floor problem; investigated & found drain rubber clogged, was new style rubber duck valve and was still clogged; installed new p trap drain tube, cleared drain hole; and water is still leaking onto the floor. No water is observed in the bottom of the bottom freezer (was cover with ice before); if the drain hole were clogged, water would overflow down onto the freezer bottom, but none is seen there. Dumped a glass of water into the drain pan to see if it might be leaking – drain pan not leaking. Mystery —- where can the water be coming from.
Ice maker is OFF, not hooked up, no source of water to ice maker.
Head Wrench
Hey Claude – probably a cracked evaporation pan. Take the rear compartment cover off the back and look on the left side where the fan is … under the fan is the evaporation pan. Look for cracks or signs that water is leaking out of it somewhere. That’s my guess.
Dan
This just happened to my Kenmore fridge. Going to do this fix. Quick question though. Would I have to thaw the fridge for 24 hours when I do this cleaning? Or only when installing the p drain. Thanks!
Head Wrench
Hey Dan – You have to get the ice out of the drain trough in the in the back of the freezer for this repair to work. I clear the ice manually by removing the back wall and making sure all is clear. If you want to avoid taking the back wall of the freezer off, then remove the old rubber grommet, then do the 24 hour defrost … then apply either the snipped grommet or the new P-trap drain tube.
Eric
Thanks a ton!!!
My fridge had been leaking for over a year and I just had a towel on the floor to soak it up!
KathyJoe
HI. We are having the 2 problems:
1. Water building up in the bottom of the freezer of a Whirlpool French Door Fridge.
2. Ice maker not working.
We don’t know if these two problems are connected. My husband cleaned out the grommet, and it’s been one day; so far no water in the bottom of the freezer,
But, we’re still not getting any water to the icemaker to make ice.
Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks.
Nuncio Di M.
Hello, this full post is very helpful. I have a Whrilpool Gold (Model: GI5SVAXVB02) that has been showing the same issue here described, for more than 3 months already. I will try to order the part suggested (W10619951), but as I’m not much of a handyman, I’m concerned about screwing up at any point of the process (even though it looks pretty straight forward).
Is there any chance you can provide any extra details on the first part of the whole process, getting access to the back of the fridge and defrosting it, etc? I would really appreciate any extra details that can be provided.
Cheers.
Charles F. Justian
OUCH, I cracked the drain pan (because I did not find your video in time to realize there was that pin to push to take the drain out). You indicate that the drain pan is a pain to replace. Could you provide some helpful hints (or a video) on how to replace it?
Andrew
Thank you so much for this explanation and video. It was so easy, and though I am handy I have no appliance knowledge, but this was a piece of cake. I replaced the old drain tube with the new P trap, BTW. Just like in the video it was a little tough to get off, and be careful not to break anything!
I am just mad I procrastinated so long at what was such an easy fix, I ended up having to replace some hardwood flooring that had become water damaged. Totally my fault…
BUT- please everyone, listen to him, you must FULLY DEFROST your freezer. I first tried to do a “quick defrost”, and when I plugged the fridge back in when in defrost mode no water was coming out of the drain and instead flooding the floor again. Unplugged it, put a little space heater in there, and let it go for a few hours and water started dripping through my new drain tube and into the drain pan. Because it was hidden in my model, that tray in the back of the freezer must have had a solid sheet of ice there and needed more time to melt.
Just to be sure it was fixed I let it go a couple of days, and sure enough, every time the defrost fan kicked on there was water pooling in the pan. Thanks again!
Tom Marvel
I replaced the grommet with the replacement p-trap and ice is still collecting on the bottom of the freezer and then water leaking onto the floor. Any ideas?
Head Wrench
The trough at the back of the freezer below the evaporator must still be blocked. That’s pretty much the only way it could still be leaking in the freezer.
John L.
Thanks brother for the very detailed correction instructions regarding the duckbill disaster created by some well paid engineer at Whirlpool. I’m three days into life with a trimmed duckbill! Just as you predicted, it had trash in it and was a sticky mess. Cleaned it, trimmed it, and defrosted the freezer to free up the frozen drain. So far, no ice in the bottom of the freezer and no water on the floor. Need more helpful folks like you in this old world! Many thanks!
Head Wrench
You are very welcome my friend!
Ann T
I have the same problem with my French door Kitchenaide refrigerator. After finding out I bought the extended warranty (yay!), I scheduled a repair to be done a few days from now. I was told I need to defrost the fridge. Do I take all the food out, unplug it, and leave doors open? Does it leak on the floor while it defrosts? Thanks for the helpful site.
Head Wrench
Yes – unplug and leave the doors open. Put a towel in the bottom of the freezer section although they usually do not leak while defrosting. Glad yer getting this issue resolved!
citizensue
this was so helpful thank you! we also heard that there is an optimal setting for the freezer to further pfrevent ice build up. might you have an opinion?
Head Wrench
This problem really has nothing to do with the temp setting. So you should be able to set it where ever you prefer without ice buildup.
YinColorado
Thanks for this blog-string! I have a 9 year old KitchenAid French Door fridge with this leak problem. Just went to their website, live-chatted with an agent. They offered to partially pay for the repair (which is still expensive here in Colorado) so I asked if they’d just send me the P-trap kit. It’s on it’s way for free. Now we’ll read all the rest of the advice here and get this fixed.
Jessica
Hey there! Yesterday I took apart the back of the freezer and thawed out and cleared the ice build-up and tried your “snip” trick until my part comes in but today my refridgerator (not the freezer) wasn’t staying cold or keeping cold…I thought maybe i pushed the fridge back too close to the wall and adjusted but I’m concerned something else is wrong now. Any ideas? I can hear the compressor and it’s running fine, is that a thing re: a fridge being too close to a wall so it doesn’t cool properly or did I do something while repairing? Any thoughts are helpful!!
-Jessica
Head Wrench
That fridge can go right against the back wall. I would suspect that something has either been disconnected or damaged while you were doing the ‘repair’. If the compressor is running, but no cooling happening, I would suspect that damage has been done to the sealed system. Did you use something sharp to get the ice out? Did you pry at anything?
Jessica
Hey there! Yesterday I took apart the back of the freexer and thawed out and cleared the ice build-up and tried your “snip” trick until my part comes in but today my refridgerator (not the freezer) wasn’t staying cold or keeping cold…I thought maybe i pushed the fridge back too close to the wall and adjusted but I’m concerned something else is wrong now. Any ideas? I can hear the compressor and it’s running fine, is that a thing re: a fridge being too close to a wall so it doesn’t cool properly or did I do something while repairing? Any thought are helpful!!
-Jessica
Scott
Still getting ice build up even after the repair has been completed. Is it possible that I missed something and should start again?
Thanks,
Scott
Head Wrench
If you installed the new drain tube, then the only thing might be that the trough and tube below the evaporator is still blocked with something. I would remove the back wall of the freezer section and make sure that is completely clear right to the evaporation pan at the bottom back. Is your ice showing up in the bottom of the freezer section … with a little trail down from the trough at the back of the freezer section?
Dan in Brighton
Whirlpool agrees that the duck bill is a lousy design, and now offers a FREE REPAIR, parts & labor, offered by Whirlpool, up to 2 years after purchase. Even after 2 years, you can get the part for free. It’s the “P Trap” drain tube kit that Head Wrench pictures above.
Here’s a copy of the tech bulletin:
https://docs.google.com/file/d/0BzIiBNwRIV4NNWJNNmx0andROGs/edit
There’s a long list of models covered. My guess: anything with that duck bill. (Mine was a EB9SHKXVQ07) In fairness, how could we expect Whirlpool to guess that a soft black-rubber part, located next to the compressor, would deteriorate and get sticky? (I’m kidding; they’re idjits.)
In case you can’t find that document via the above URL, here’s the highlights:
Technical Service Pointer #: W10632338A
Order and install kit part number W10619951.
Note: Whirlpool will pay for repair parts and labor to perform this repair up to 2
years from the Date of Purchase. Whirlpool will supply repair parts through the
normal Parts distribution channel at no cost to the consumer for this repair on all
units that are beyond 2 years from the date of purchase.
PS: Thanks for this blog!
Kathleen Bernal
Need to get in touch with Whirlpool I have been trying for 2 weeks, chat line is down and have been on hold for 15 minute intervals. I need this part replaced on my whirlpool refrigerator. Currently I am very frustrated with Whirlpool… and need assistance…….
Mustardtiger3
I had this same problem on my 18 month olf whirlpool. I found this thread, got my fridge model and serial number and then I went to the whirlpool web page and clicked on the live chat help icon. I told them the issue and that I was aware that there was a fix for it (p trap part). The associate told me that my friedge was out of manufacturer’s warranty BUT that they would send someone out to fix it anyway. FREE! I have the appointment scheduled two days from now.
I am glad I found this thread and decided to give the chat a shot. Thumbs up for Whirlpool’s customer service!
Thanks!
Tony
There is also a Whirlpool 819043 Heat Probe designed to conduct heat from the defroster heat element down into the freezer drain to prevent the drain from freezing solid. Do you think this part would be a good solution?
Head Wrench
That probe was designed for top mount refrigerators which had a problem with the drain freezing up because of a poor design. This would not help much with bottom mount units that have the drain tube blocked by insulation or other such gunk. Again – the problem with bottom mount units is a slow drain due to blockages at the rubber grommet – the ice in the drain trough is a symptom of the real problem. The best repair is the one that I’ve outlined ….
Sheila
I wrote my previous post in the wee hours of the morning, but after a good night’s sleep I have reread the previous posts and see that you have answered my main question already, so we are going to try to do this repair only from the back of the fridge and see if it works, rather than get in to accessing the inside of the freezer compartment. In case that does not work, I guess my only remaining question is how on earth do you get the rails/drawers out? They sure don’t make it easy! I actually had called Kitchenaid not long after we got the unit when my son put a bowl of jello in the freezer to set, where it promptly spilled everywhere, including on the side wall and bottom. I asked how to get the drawers out to clean and was told you couldn’t as then it would be a hazard that a small child could climb in the freezer! How can repairmen get in there then? Is there some trick to it?
Thank you in advance for taking the time to address issues like this – you are awesome! I think it is ironic you are giving advice on how to deal with a freezing issue when you are in southern Manitoba where you just had the coldest winter since 1898! My daughter moved to Winnipeg last fall and is ready to move back to Vancouver after the winter they had!
Head Wrench
lol – yes, global warming did not get the message here in Manitoba.
Yep – do the snip and then a full defrost and see how it goes. I’ve heard back from a few people who have done this and it seems to be about a 50/50 shot to fix the problem. If you do need the drawer to be removed, I can help with that. Let me know …
Sheila
So glad to find this site with an answer to the problem we are having with our Kitchenaid fridge with bottom mount freezer. We have been having to break up the ice that forms in the the bottom of the freezer every few days or water leaks out, on to our hardwood floor. We are going to try your fix for sure, but I have a couple of questions – you mention the back wall of the freezer, and also the back of the fridge, so I want to clarify – do we need to both take the freezer door and drawers off and then take the panel off the back wall of the inside of the freezer AND pull the fridge out and access the rear of it? We were able to get the door off of the rails, but can not see how we can get the drawers out – they don’t seem to come off the rails, and we can’t access the interior of the freezer with them there. If I understand right, are you saying that if we defrost the freezer, we won’t have to access the inside of it, just the rear of the fridge.
Also, I wonder if our unit is leaking water in to the freezer compartment from more than just the defrost line, as it seems to be a lot of water. Every 3 days or so the entire bottom of the freezer has a thick build-up of ice, and it seems like that much water would not have been able to evaporate (if it hadn’t turned to ice). Does that sound normal – I know there is a lot of condensation, but am surprised it would be that much.
Dave C
Some friends of mine were having this same problem with their Whirlpool. I followed your instructions & had them defrost it for 12 hours. Then I went over & did the “snip” on the grommet. That was about a month ago & I was back there today & there has been no more water leaking onto the floor or ice build up on the bottom of the freezer compartment. They are very happy with this outcome & said to say thanks to you for your info on resolving their messy issue!
Head Wrench
Yer welcome! Glad to help!
Melissa Javier-Barry
Just to confirm, to complete this repair, do we need to both a.) enter from the inside of the freezer (removing the drawers and back wall) to remove the ice build up and b.) also enter from the back of the freezer to access the grommet and snip it? Our fridge is wedged in in an incredibly tight space–can we complete the repair from the front alone? If not, and we do go in from the back, can we complete the repair completely from the back without having to remove the inner drawers and back wall?
Thanks for your help.
Head Wrench
You for sure need to get at the back to snip the grommet. Instead of removing all the freezer parts and back wall, you can try just defrosting the unit which means = unit unplugged, doors wide open for at minimum 12 hours. The ice will all melt out. If there is nothing stuck in the drain tube between the freezer and the evaporation pan, then (with the snip) you should be good to go. I always manually remove the ice and make sure the drain is completely clear both visually and with a piece of 1/4″ plastic tubing just to make sure the unit is completely repaired.
Liz
Thanks for the great info Head Wrench!
We have a Whirlpool bottom-mount fridge in the kitchen where I work and the leaking problem had ruined/rotted the floor underneath the unit (after 3 years of the leak being ignored before I started working there).
After repeatedly chipping the accumulated ice sheet out of the bottom of the freezer and disconnecting the ice cube maker water line (thinking that would help stop the leaking) I am glad to know what the problem really is! I also thought maybe the ice on the floor of the freezer was keeping the freezer drawer from shutting all the way and that the frozen things inside were thawing and dripping onto the floor. But No!
Tomorrow I am going to pull out the fridge, open up the back, defrost the coil with a heat gun, clean out the drain pan and do the snip-job on the duck bill you mentioned. We have already replaced the floor (and rotten sub-floor!) under the fridge so I really don’t want the new floor to get trashed as well!
I thought maybe this particular refrigerator model must’ve just been a piece of “S#%T” (because a sticker on the back said it was a Factory Display unit) but now I see it is possibly fixable! Yay!
Our new floor thanks you!
Head Wrench
Glad to help!
John
This is exactly the problem I’m having with my Whirlpool refrigerator model# GZ25FSRXYY0, and it is ruining my wood floor. I don’t trust myself to do the repair, I live in westminster CO 80031 is there anyone you could recommend in this area?
Thanks
John
Head Wrench
Sorry John – I put it out there to my contacts in the US but could not find anybody in your area. Call Whirlpool and get them to refer you to the warranty authorized servicer in your area.
JoAnne
Taking out the ice maker? Don’t see that covered. Help!
Head Wrench
Removing the icemaker is usually just 3 screws – 2 on top of the icemaker going into the sidewall and 1 on the support below. If you send me a picture of your icemaker mounted, I can walk you through it.
Mike R
Thanks for the concise instructions. I did this easy repair to my five year old Maytag MBL (Whirlpool) bottom freezer style refrigerator. Best part? It cost nothing… no parts required.
Head Wrench
Yer welcome. Glad it helped!
Head Wrench
Yep – $0.00 is always a good price to pay! lol.
Alan
Thanks for the rapid reply and the suggestion. P-trap kit has been ordered!
Alan
Our Whirlpool Gold w/ bottom freezer (GB2FHDXWB01) suffers from the same frost buildup in the freezer. Additionally, the vents up to the fridge compartment get iced up, causing it to not be cool. Defrosting brings relief, but it’s needed more and more frequently. I opened the back panel to check the duck bill. We have a slide that leads down to the tray (dry), and while there is no tubing, there is a plastic exit hole at the top of the compartment, which directly above the slide. This is where the rubber duck bill attachment should be (we found pictures of it online), but the duck bill is nowhere to be found. Other than a Sears repairman a couple years back (for the sheet of ice problem you mentioned), nobody’s ever been inside the back. Any suggestions?
Thanks,
Alan
Head Wrench
Ya – you need something there to prevent too much warm air going up into the freezer. The grommet missing is probably why you have the vents getting iced up. Order part number W10619951 from Repair Clinic. This is the official Whirlpool ‘fix’ for this problem and is a P-Trap that replaces the rubber grommets. Should solve your problem.
Tom
Hello great site….. my problem is I cant the old trough out it seems to be fused to the evap tray…… any suggestions
Head Wrench
Hey Tom – ya, getting the old trough out can be trouble sometimes. Certainly cut it in half the way I show in the 1st video … and then here is a 2nd video that might help you a bit: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iCdaghxERAY. There is a little tab that can be pushed in with the tip of a small screwdriver that should release it. Good luck!
Jim
When you snip this grommet are you not creating a opening in which warm air
can flow up into the freezer?
Head Wrench
Yes, but not enough to cause frosting issues.
Sal
Yes, Although our unit was out of warranty, Whirlpool sent us the P-trap drain tube unit no charge. I installed it from the rear. I then emptied the unit, opened the doors and thawed it for 24 hrs. I checked the pan underneath and it was full of water indicating the drain was open. Fired the unit up again and all is well.
One web-site describes the tedious procedure to take the freezer unit apart. It is much easier to just thaw it out for 24 hrs.
Head Wrench
Defrosting works as long as there is nothing else in the drain tray or tube. If there are bits of insulation or other gunk in the tube, then the water will come back and the unit will require a full flush out from the inside out.
Richard
Hi there,
Our Whirlpool refrigerator was purchased by Condo builder for 3 yeasrs and now we had water leaking porblem too. I called Whirlpool customer service and the lady said the warranty only has one year and they can not provide P-trap drain tube for free.
would you please advise how you get the part from Whirlpool for free?
Thanks for your time and help!
Head Wrench
I do not know of a way of making Whirlpool give it to you for free. Sorry.
Etana Finkler
We have the Maytag #MBL2258 XESL, bottom mount fridge with the blocked drain in the freezer section. We have a Home Depot service contract. We had 4 different repairmen “fix” clean out the blocked drain within the first year of owning it. Finally the 5th time, another repairman removed the duck bill grommet.
Reading above, you explain that removing it can cause other problems:
“If the grommet is not there, then when the air pressure equalizes, it will draw warm moist air through the drain tube which coats the evaporator and can cause potential moisture issues in other areas.”
Now that the grommet was removed, we don’t have ice/water leaks, so I am not sure what exactly to tell the insurance company/repair people, because it sounds like removing the grommet was not a solution, yet we don’t have a current leak.
Do you have a suggestion about what to do now that the grommet is removed (we have it), or what to tell the insurance company to repair it correctly? I cannot put the grommet back myself.
Head Wrench
I would not leave it with the grommet completely removed. What you could/should do is contact the insurance company and tell them that Whirlpool (Maytag) has created a permanent solution to this problem and give them this information: Reference Whirlpool instruction sheet W106199972 Rev A, 6/2013. That is the instruction on how to replace the grommet with a p-trap style drain. I don’t use those as the ‘snip’ has been 100% successful for me, but that would be the official repair.
Karen
What Bernie said above. Thanks.
Had a similar situation in an older refrigerator 15 years ago, so was easy to guess this was the same problem/solution.
Bernie
I cleaned debris from the nipple and did a complete defrost for 12 hours, like you suggested, and today the fridge is working like new. Much thanks for your immense help!
Graham
Worked like a charm – thanks!
Bernie
I have the Kenmore bottom mount (# 596.6928) with the same thawing/leaking problem. I was completely unable to remove the top sliding drawer so worked with a hair dryer on the two rear wall vents. A good bit of water melted out but a few days later there is more ice on the fridge bottom. Would like to try your snip option but can’t get that top drawer out of the railings. Also, do I need to remove the outside back panel to complete the repair? Thank you.
Head Wrench
Yes – the back panel has to come off. That is where you find the black rubber flapper that you have to snip. Then, if you can’t figure out how to get the drawer out, the best way to clear the ice from the drain trough and tube would be to just defrost the whole thing. This means unplugging it and leaving the doors wide open for a good 12 hours. That will clear the ice out.
Sally
Is this problem fixed via the inside of the freezer or from the back of the unit? I am willing to try to fix myself but hesitate if I have to start taking the freezer apart.
Head Wrench
The rubber ‘snip’ is done from the back. You can try just defrosting the fridge to get the ice out of the trough under the evaporator – if nothing is physically blocking it, then that should be enough (along with ‘the snip.’) If something is in the trough blocking the tube (like a piece of insulation) then the problem will come back. The key is cutting the rubber piece though. Good luck.
Andrew
Whirlpool has created a permanent fix to the “duck-bill” clog problem.
They have a kit which replaces the “duck-bill” and slanted “trough funnel” with a “drain spacer” and a “p-trap” which functions exactly as a sink s-trap; i.e., it prevents warm air from backing up into the freezer space by maintaining water in the bottom bend of the p-trap. This eliminates the easily-plugged constriction of the duck-bill (which can be clogged up with either trash and sticky stuff).
Reference Whirlpool instruction sheet W106199972 Rev A, 6/2013.
Regards,
Andy in Nashville, TN
Head Wrench
Yep – now we get to unplug p-traps … it will just take a bit longer. lol. I’ve done a couple with the p-trap – don’t see any advantage to using it instead of the ‘snip’ plus the ‘repair’ costs my customers more money. I’m giving customers the option at this point until somebody can show me the p-trap is a better repair. I’ve never (knock on wood) had a callback on a snip I’ve done – so I know that repair works.
Leonard
I’ve had this problem for weeks. After reading your remedy, which was pretty easy, I’m confident that this will solve the problem.
Kelly
I have a two year old Maytag that has this problem. Is it worth repairing? Is this a common problem with all bottom freezer units?
Head Wrench
Yes – it is worth repair. Blocked drains are common to every fridge since we developed frost-free fridges.
ladymithril
Does this also happen to whirlpool gold single door fridges with bottom mount freezers?
Head Wrench
Blocked drains have happened to pretty much every fridge since we came out with frost-free fridges. It certainly can (and does) happen on single door bottom mounts.
Chuck
Does any one else have any pics to post? Do you need to access the coils and drain pan from the inside of the freezer or pull the fridge out and get to it through the back? Do you think the temp the fridge/freezer are at makes a difference ( if its super cold it won’t defrost completely and more ice builds up?
Thanks!
Head Wrench
Yes – you access the evaporator from inside the freezer = behind the back wall. Temps have nothing to do with this. It is either because the drain is blocked by junk or it ices up because of a slow drain. Either situation is fixed by the repair described here.
DCM
We are about to purchase a Sears-sold Whirlpool 25 Cu Ft (Sears part 4602139). All the reviews I read show this problem is common on that model. But we have had a very poor experience with a 4 year old LG for which parts were nearly impossible to obtain and Sears has not successfully repaired in now 3 attempts and 8 weeks trying… (so they gave us $1800 credit as we had a 4 year warranty not yet expired). So, was thinking Whirlpool next best thing… parts are available etc.
Does anyone know if this design issue has been fixed, or will the fridge we are purchasing have this same “duck bill” boot and should we just cut it immediately upon install? Will it void our warranty though if we do?
Thanks!
Head Wrench
This problem hits maybe 2% of the French Door Whirlpool fridges. I wouldn’t bother trying to ‘fix’ something that is not broken yet. If you end up with this problem, you know what to do.
VIRGINIA GORDON
Not knowing the configuration of the duck bill, is it possible to put some sort of screen over it to prevent whatever from going down there?
Thank you for your time in providing so informative a site for us mere consumers
David - Kailua
We had a similar problem in February – the Sears repairman came, heated up/melted the ice and ran a wire down the drain tube. All was fine for five months, then the problem began again.
Another Sears repairman arrived this morning -this time I observed and took a few photos. Once he melted the ice and cleaned the area, he removed the back panel, removed the real problem -the duck bill valve – and cleaned it. He cut a slit in it before reinstalling it. He says he has never had to return for a similar problem since he began slitting the duck bill valves. Looks like you have the answer – I can now handle this myself if I have a repeat problem rather than waiting a few weeks for the maintenance contract repair person to arrive.
JC
it’s been 2 – 3 weeks now and no leaks thanks to you …hair dryer and an air compressor to make sure drain tube is clear …cheers !
Tom
= Strathy = Thanks for replying! Since I have no water line/ice maker, it looks like my problem may be a cracked drain pan – but I can’t think of why it would be cracked.
However … when I first removed the back panel of this Kenmore (#596-6997-2011) I took several photos and noticed that the drain pan had some aluminum tape on one side (to the right when viewed from the back). This is visible in the two JPG pictures linked below (just add http:// to the beginning) The PNG image is the exploded parts list showing the drain pan as #8.
This is the way it came from the factory, but I can’t imagine what purpose the aluminum tape has – unless it is a poor “factory Quality Assurance” fix for a cracked drain pan. What do you think? Have you ever seen aluminum tape used like this?
img694.imageshack.us/img694/3467/kenmore1105425p00006.png
imageshack.us/a/img41/1840/kenmorefridge5966997201.jpg
imageshack.us/a/img46/1840/kenmorefridge5966997201.jpg
Head Wrench
Hey Tom,
The tape there is normal – I’ve seen it many times before. Not exactly sure of the purpose of it though … lol. Check out this image: https://neighboursappliance.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/Drain_Pan.png. There is residue outside of the drain pan that should not be there and indicates that water has been pooling there. This would lead me to believe that the evaporation pan is cracked or leaking somehow. Look real close at that pan and see what you can find.
Tom
Just 2 days later and … not a good result – another pool of water found trickling from under the fridge this morning. I had opened the slot in the duckbill grommet to about twice the original size after thoroughly cleaning it. Also had verified that the drain tube was clear by running a long pipe cleaner through it – totally clean
So the cause must be from some other reason. If the drain tube is blocked, I expect that it’s simply icing up – but have no clue as to why it is doing so. I’ll have to open up the cooling coil compartment again, this time with the unit still running. Last time there was probably time enough for any ice blockage to melt. I had nowhere near the ice that’s in the pictures on this blog post.
Head Wrench
On this type of problem, the water usually cones out from the freezer door – not from under the unit. You will also find a flat slab of ice in the drain trough because of the blocked drain. In your case I would be looking for a cracked drain pan or a leaking water line.
Tom
We thought we had this problem fixed in mid-March on our now 18-month-old Kenmore #596.6997.2011. Cleaned out the duckbill of some food particles from the freezer and the stickiness of whatever they use at the factory but found a puddle on the floor again this week. Finding your idea to clip the duckbill we’ve tried the same and totally cleaned the part with alcohol. Will continue to monitor. (happy to send pics of the original and modified part)
Tom
Following up on this … the problem turned out to be a bad part from original manufacture. The drain pan had become brittle and cracked, eventually sprouting a leak. This pan is an evaporation tray that needs to handle water and heat, but clearly couldn’t stand just 18 months of duty. ( Pics: http://imgur.com/a/CQ42f )
The replacement cost a service call and parts – and Whirlpool’s reputation takes a hit, too.
hillsmom
The appliance repair man just left. I printed out your instructions about the grommet “duck bill” repair, as that was just the exact problem! He said he wasn’t familiar with the term “duck bill” but the picture was it. He said it was quite sticky, too.
I can’t thank you enough for this excellent information. He did a great job getting all the ice out front and back. Cheers…
Head Wrench
Yer welcome! Glad the information was a help to you!
Greg Weeks
Strathy: This was an excellent description of how to not only solve but “fix” this problem – the pictures really helped! In my case I have a Kenmore 596.6928 bottom mount (likely identical to the Whirlpool model above). One additional step that is important to follow is to fully melt all of the ice build up in and around the coils on the inside of the freezer (behind the rear wall). THANK-YOU VERY MUCH!
terry o'malley
i have run into this problem many times and have been doing the same thing you have suggested and never had a problem .
thanks
a repairman for 40 years
Steve Peters
Thanks – my Whirlpool is newer and now has rubber end on the drain line, it was ver sticky and would not open. I pulled it off and cleaned it so far so good. Thanks for ;eading me to narrow down the problem and know where to look.
George Dohrman
Made modification on whirlpool side+side bottom mount using P-trap on condensation drain tube, after doing full defrost. Very soon after water showed up back on bottom of freezer? Checked condensation drain tube frozen again! Is there a need to “prime” P-trap(pre- create seal?)
Head Wrench
No … no priming needed. If the water is still on the bottom of the freezer, then the drain hole is still blocked. I would remove everything in the freezer, remove the back wall and make sure nothing is stuck in the drain hole. I would run a piece of 1/4″ plastic hose (or something else like that) down the hole to make sure it is clear right to the back … then reinstall the p-trap and put more water down the drain hole to make sure it can flow through the p-trap into the evaporation pan. If that is all clear – then it should be fine.