httpvh://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hpfcIuLLIYQ

This is a cool problem that can sometimes be hard to catch. What is happening here, is when the dishwasher goes into drain, it starts a siphon. The siphon then pulls all the water out of the machine and if it is strong enough it will also pull out the next fill. This situation occurs primarily when the drain is installed straight down into the basement instead of into a drain stub under the sink in the kitchen. When it is installed under the sink, the level of the drain is higher than the water level in the dishwasher and a siphon cannot start. However, with the drain below the level of the water, siphoning can occur. I find that even with a high loop installed on the side of the dishwasher, if the drain goes straight down from the loop a siphon will still be created. The only way to really stop this is to install an ‘air-gap’ or a ‘siphon break’ into the drain line which will allow air into the loop and prevent any siphon from occurring.

With this unit, the water siphoned out and then the heater came on to heat the water (that was no longer in the unit.) This created a higher amp draw than normal because no water was flowing over the element, which in turn took out the safety fuse in the control panel area.

This customer will have his installer back into reroute his drain.

My advice:  if you are going to spend $1200 on a new glasstop stove, you should also spend a $100 or so more and buy yourself some new cookware that has flat bottoms. This series of photos show what a warped frying pan looks like and what it will do to your glasstop in 6 months as well. This was an Indian customer who was also using that wire grate as a grill to grill the underside of their Chapati (Indian flatbread.) This is not a good idea as the stove was designed to have the heat from the elements absorbed by something and not to essentially be heating air. $450 for the new glasstop. Thank you very much.

httpvh://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5UpurstH4GE

This is a cool problem that I’ve not seen on this unit before. The washer will start and make all the right sounds – then suddenly unlock and sit there flashing for ever.  Almost like someone has touched the ‘pause’ button – except nobody has. I’m going with a CCU on this one, but it could end up being a UI (User Interface.). I’ll let you know.

httpvh://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HMlxI2T7mOQ

EDIT: So this one ended up being a User Interface. It looks like Start button was shoring out and causing the unit to go into ‘Pause’ which is why the door was unlocking and the lights are flashing … just like someone had hit the ‘Pause’ button. Unfortuately I went with the CCU first thinking that something in the CCU was causing the stoppage – but this did not fix the problem. If you see this – go with the UI first! Live and learn.

Previous company (one of those guys – you know who they are), replaced the transmission and basket drive on a direct drive Whirlpool washer last week. Customer called back to complain that her clothes were coming out wet at the end of the cycle. For some reason I was sent out. After tearing the thing completely apart again, I found that they had installed the wrong clutch spring. They used the one for the apartment sized washes instead of the full size one. On top of that, they only finger tightened the transmission mounting bolts, so it was rattling around on the spin cycle.

So, a new clutch spring and proper assembly and this unit is working again. Plus I got a 5$ tip from the customer. Sweet!

F25 is a pretty unusual code on these machines – I don’t see it very often. F25 tells us that the central control board (or motor control board – not sure which) is not sensing the tachometer on the motor. On this one, the motor and tachometer both ohmed out as good. It took me a good half hour of checking continuity and testing to finally find this broken wire. It was still nicely lodged into the connector, but no longer had continuity. When I gave it a good tug, it popped out of the connector.

So a new motor harness for this one. That was a fun problem.

This is a French Door model Whirlpool refrigerator. The freezer door was incredibly hard to open and close. The cause was pretty obvious. The left hand rail and track system has completely come apart and is binding up. Will be replacing the whole left rail system to get this unit working properly again.

This washer was mostly spinning pretty much the whole cycle. I replaced the timer which fixed the problem. When I took the old timer apart, I found fused contacts – so the timer was definitely the issue.