LF Code on a Whirlpool Duet Style Front Loading Washer
The unit will not fill and is flashing up the code LF. LF stands for Long Fill and can be triggered by anything from a water supply problem to pressure switch problems. In this case there was no water coming to the unit … so the fill was extra long! Lol.
EDIT: Other things to check for with a LF code:
1. Did someone tell you that you could use just cold water on your washer? I’ve noticed a lot of people trying to use their washers with only a cold water hookup. The various new ‘cold water’ detergents have not helped either. Your Duet washer will not work properly with only the cold water hooked up. It still measures the temperature of the water entering the machine, and if it is too cold it will still add some hot to bring the water temp up a bit. I think it tries to make it around 68 deg. Here in Canada, our tap water can be down as low as the low 40’s F – so a fair amount of hot water is required to bring the temp up. The next question I hear you asking is … why? I wan’t to use just cold water. Well, actually, no you do not. Do this as an experiment. Take the cold water from your tap and measure the temp. If it is below 50 degrees, add a handful of detergent and see what what happens. It will not dissolve … or if it does it will be sort of thick. Soap’s need a certain degree of warmth to activate and tap cold is often too cold to do that. Your clothes will not be washed properly in this situation.
2. Anti-flood hoses. These hoses were designed to shut off a flow of water if they burst. So … a couple of things about these. They only come in braided stainless steel. I’ve never seen one of those hoses burst. They are wrapped in a sheath of stainless steel metal … they can’t burst. So why the anti-flood valves built in? Answer: so they can charge you more. Next: those hoses are famous for triggering off the anti-flood valve on just a regular washer fill. Often it will be just one hose that it happens on, but that means that when it is calling for water from that hose and not getting it, the LF code will be triggered. This most often shows up on the rinse cycle.
3. If you are getting LF and water is entering the machine … and creeping up the glass on the door, then you have a water pressure switch or pressure hose problem. Check out this post for one of the more common problems I see with the pressure hoses. In this case, water is actually coming in, the machine is just not able to sense it coming in.
4. Kinked fill hose?
5. Taps turned off?
6. Are your feet wet? Is the water coming in but draining out via some major leak on the bottom? lol.
EDIT 2: See my post F20 On A Duet Washer for another very common cause of LF Codes.
If any of these ideas helped you or if you found it to be something else, please add a comment here for me. I learn as much from others as I do from my own observations!
13 Comments
frank
G’Day everyone…
My expensive whirlpool Duet F/L washer refuses to spin the excess water out of the drum. I will wash fine in any load setting but WILL NOT spin dry.
There are bunches of these forums but most don’t agree on why this is happening. I need help guys… my wife is losing her faith her “MacGyver”
aziz akkar
HI FRANK,
CHECK THE DRAINPUMP FILTER MAYBE IT S BLOCKED.IF NOT CHANGE THE DRAIN PUMP.
Brandon
My Whirlpool Duet flashed the LF code when attempting a normal load and stops, but it will complete the rinse/spin option. The water sounds like it is coming in to the washer with a lot LESS pressure when trying to wash than it does when switched to the rinse/spin option.
What could be causing LF when washing but NOT when rinse/spin?
Head Wrench
On the main wash, your washer will be brining in hot and cold water … even on the cool setting. On rinse, it is using only cold. Suspect either bad Hot water valve, or maybe a plugged screen on the valve. Make sure you have good waterflow from your hot hose by disconnecting it, putting the disconnected end into a pail or wash tub and turn the valve on. You should have a lot of water pressure.
Barona
LF means Long Fill.
If the tube from the bottom of the tub to the water level sensor has a hole, then you will get LF.
Change the black tub which runs from the bottom of the water level sensor to the bottom of the tub. When you replace it, do not wire tie it to the side of the tub.
You will find your little black hose has a hole where it was wire tied to the side of the tub.
This repair can be performed from the rear panel removal.
Robert harwood
I second the comment by tgiv had the same problem on mine , i only found it after replacing my pressure switch , wish i had found it firat would have saved some cash
Head Wrench
Thanks. I updated this post to include a link to another post about air hose leaks.
LaWanna Reece
I am having trouble with the washer throwing the LF code. Doesn’t do all the time no matter water temperature. Have changed the water pump it was bad changed the pressure switch have cleared the codes numerous times. Where are the anti flood hoses located. I’ll try that next unless you have another suggestion
Head Wrench
The ‘Anti-flood’ hoses are hoses that you may have added when you bought the machine. They don’t come with washers. If you still have the original hoses on the machine, they will not be Anti-flood. Think of the problem this way: the machine is either not getting water from one of the valves or the machine is not sensing the water coming in from one of the valves. If you definitely have both hot and cold coming into the machine when it fills (best to check using diagnostic cycle,) then your machine is not sensing the water coming in and you have to figure out why. Hope that helps your thinking and diagnostic procedures.
tgiv
Good Duet design for low IQ easy assembly & repairs does not bar such lousy assembly such as tying the pressure (suction) tube coming from Pressure Switch to washer structure so as to create a wearing point on next structure down so when in motion, this cheap black plastic/rubber tube wears away until it creates a pin hole leak = no longer functions = overfilling + LF code beeping … if lucky, can seal with a dab of silicone, then reposition foam insulation to that spot
Head Wrench
I would not silicone this … both styles of hose are around $10 and should be standard truck stock for most repairmen.
Misty
Turned the hot water valve on and worked fine.. Didn’t realize even though I had everything set on only cold water coming in that I needed to have the hot water valve turned on too.. Thank you for your help…
Jeff
My Maytag Duet washer currently runs ONLY when the ‘cold water’ tap is turned on and hot water tap is turned off.
Wife said the last cycle, it did not ‘shut off’ normally, and water kept running.
Doesn’t seem to fill or overflow or flood or anything.
She found another article (maybe this one?) that said, “May be an air leak or other such leak causing improper pressure to be sensed” and that it might be a hose air leak.
NOTE: I just replaced the drain pump, because it had F9, which indicated failed drain pump. Now, I’m wonedring if that was just a symptom of hose leakage or other leakage?
Pressure switch seems to function fine. I was able to get some pressure by blowing through the hose, but did not check it for “fine leaks.”
Also, had to shorte the ‘short thick’ hose from the Detergent Dispenser’ to the flow valve (if that’s what that round white thing is called, just past the dispense) – but it seems to have enough length and seems to be sealed just fine.
NOTE also: when wife forced a ‘drain cycle,’ it drained just fine.
Any tips on helping isolate it? (thanks in advance)